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Routes in Rodent Ranch

A.G Tumnus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Basted Pikas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitty Bee S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Elk Speaks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mouse Speaks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blinded by the Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fuzzy Navel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girls do Pinchlingue S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Bee S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. Jingles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Myopic Vision S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pika Angst S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
To Stand On S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jim Sherner
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

While the Northern Utah climbing book gives this no stars, and some might feel the same way, I think its the best one at the crag because of its varied traditional feel. 4 star classic? Not really, but its one of the best I've done in Logan. Casey Hyer must have just missed this gem.

Climb the right leaning crack up through a juggy overhung section, followed by exciting finger jams with perfect positive feet to the crux lieback/undercling around a bulge on slippery yellow rock. Follow the low angle face to the chains. You can stem, chimney, jam, lieback, jug haul, and crimp on the stellar route. It might look kind of crappy from the ground, but it's really excellent.

Belaying from the top reduces sheath shredding and this route it not really topropable due to its traversing nature.

Location

Located in the alcove in between "Pika Angst" and the hardman .13 routes that ascend the steep overhung face. Its the obvious crack system in the dihedral that trends right, ending on Pika Angst's anchors.

Protection

Fourteen bolts plus the chains.  Many finger size pieces might make this an enjoyable, but scary trad lead.

Photos

Doug Joness
logan, ut
 
Doug Joness   logan, ut
 
14 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. There were fixed biners in the chains when I climbed it today Apr 28, 2015

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