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Routes in Cragganmore

50 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Water Fall, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clyniesh S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Daddy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Man Fetish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laphroig S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loch Du S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Popcorn S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
RedBreast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slay S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Peas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,274 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard Fernandez on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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41 Opinions

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Description

Crux is up high where it gets very steep and feet get thinner. A very pumpy route with shake-outs, stays very overhung to the chains. The exit moves can be intimidating, until you snag the "hidden" side-pull(s). Good holds through-out.

Location

Second route from the left in the cave.

Protection

10 +- draws and biners at the top.

Photos

Grading is subjective but 12b to 11d is kinda whacked. I'm under 5ft. and found the last bit difficult.It was bright and I didn't see the last bolt until I was almost past it on crappy holds. For me Sweet Peas/Sweat Peas was harder than 49 at Minimum. But I live in a small twisted world where a 5.11 can sometimes be easier than a 5.10. Are ratings suppose to be for onsite? People often downgrade routes they've been on a lot. Maybe they forget that. Oct 5, 2015
SM Ryan
  5.12a
SM Ryan  
  5.12a
Grading might be height dependent. If shorter (I am 5'1") the crux at the top is reachy and much harder than any other 11d I have done. So I agree with 12a. Sep 27, 2012
dbrown
  5.11c/d
dbrown  
  5.11c/d
Great climb! I thought that this was the same grade as Groundwork at The Minimum Crag. 11c or 11d. Fun climb with harder routes to send to the right after doing this one. Aug 21, 2012
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
I agree. Jugs appear every time you start to get really pumped and there is the coolest resting holds I've found in Maple, right before the height dependent crux finish. Pegg's new book still gives it 12a while Knezek's says 11d. It felt a lot harder than the other 11d's I did. Regardless, it is amazingly fun! Aug 19, 2012
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Downrated to 11d and called a warm-up in recent guide, this thing is a long enduro haul with one very good rest up high. No move is harder than 10+...and then it throws a V4 crux at you right before you clip the chains. If rated on last 2 moves, this is a solid 12- in my opinion. Jul 13, 2012