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Fat Crack and Beer
5.11+ PG13,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
FA: Mark Stevenson, Mike Kopcienski
In Progress
> S Side Crags (C…
> Brilliant Pebble (CLO…
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Begin at the wide crack on the wall behind the Brilliant Pebble. Tunnel into the wall to place a big cam in a horizontal, then return to the light and scum through the wide bit on TR. Enjoy easy climbing on okay rock up to the first roof. Bypass this to the right and then rail out the hanging face, clipping two widely spaced bolts. Pull a smaller roof over gear to a good rest on a ledge. Tech through through the vertical crux above past two more bolts staying mindful of that big ledge.
Rope drag from the big roof makes clipping in the high crux quite challenging, with a ledge waiting below. If you were to drag a second rope for to the top bit, the route might just feel more like the 5.11 that it probably is.
Location
Follow the faint trail from the backside of the pebble up the hill to the wall behind.
Protection
Gear to 3.5" plus 4 bolts and one 6" cam. Lower from the fixed anchors with a 60m, but don't expect much rope left over.
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