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West Virginia
> The New River G…
> Meadow River Gorge
> South Side Crags
> The Brilliant Pebble
Fat Crack and Beer
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Brilliant Pebble
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Brown Star S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delta Star T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Crack and Beer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Full Sail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Grey Goose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Machete Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One for the Gipper S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson, Mike Kopcienski |
| Page Views: | 124 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Gilliam on Jul 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: South side crags access issue.
Details
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Access Issue: Writing in chalk
Details
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Description
Begin at the wide crack on the wall behind the Brilliant Pebble. Tunnel into the wall to place a big cam in a horizontal, then return to the light and scum through the wide bit on TR. Enjoy easy climbing on okay rock up to the first roof. Bypass this to the right and then rail out the hanging face, clipping two widely spaced bolts. Pull a smaller roof over gear to a good rest on a ledge. Tech through through the vertical crux above past two more bolts staying mindful of that big ledge.
Rope drag from the big roof makes clipping in the high crux quite challenging, with a ledge waiting below. If you were to drag a second rope for to the top bit, the route might just feel more like the 5.11 that it probably is.
Rope drag from the big roof makes clipping in the high crux quite challenging, with a ledge waiting below. If you were to drag a second rope for to the top bit, the route might just feel more like the 5.11 that it probably is.
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