PRINT: Rock Climb Tomacco, Maple Canyon

Tomacco

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 100 votes
FA: Tyler Phillips
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > Simpson Rock

Description

A good route with great positioning. The crux sits at about the 3/4 mark, just near the anchors. Still cleaning up at the time of this writing, I predict a potential classic? Cool moves, a majority of good rock, and some of the steep! Give it a whirl, its plenty worth it.

There are large red cobbles named after the miracle plant from the Simpsons....".hmmmmm this tastes like grandmas breath"

Location

On the steep south face of Simpson rock, this is the right hand line.

Protection

8 QD's & Gated Hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tomaco

Mmmmm Tomacco

Tomaco is steep

Fun and steep!

Steep face of Simpson rock. Stupid Sexy Flanders (12c) is on the left of the face. Tomacco (12a) on the right of the face.

Court Sending Tomaco!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO

5.12a/b

This probably has the best position in maple! Great climbing, with great views.
Thanks for the excellent addition! Jul 7, 2010

Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT

5.12b

I pulled a big jug off the top of this today. This climb is still cleaning up, and traffic will really help this become a classic climb. Great movement on steep jugs. I'm glad for the new guide book, or I may have never hopped on this climb. Jul 28, 2012

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

5.11+

Fun! Jug Haul with a bit of crux at the end. Pretty soft compared to the stuff at Minimum/windshield. Jun 8, 2014

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY

5.12-

Super fun route that's also quite photogenic! Steep jug haul that stays on you until the end! Athletic climbing that feels easier than many of the other 12's in the area Dec 18, 2016

Kip H
Farmington, utah

5.12a

I'm a huge Simpsons fan! This route is intimidating to look at. Get on it and its all there. Mostly endurance than techy really. Tomacco is just one of the best routes at Maple! Apr 28, 2018

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11d

Presumably the route name should be spelled "Tomacco", youtube.com/watch?v=IHSqtXD… Jun 4, 2018

Steve Miller
West Jordan

5.12a/b

"Smooth and mild- and refreshingly addictive!"
Steeeep jugs haul with some cruxing business 3/4 of the way up. 1st go on this your arms may catch on fire with pump, mine did!
This is the most impressive line to look at from ground and climbs like an absolute gem. One of my very favorite routes ever.
Probably on the soft side of 12.b

youtu.be/-fDnUJIObj0 Nov 8, 2019

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

The SLCA's Anchor Maintenance Crew has replaced all lead bolts / anchors with Fixe SS Glue-in bolts.

If you would like to donate to the effort, please visit: saltlakeclimbers.org/

If you notice any bolts needing attention, please fill out our observation form here: saltlakeclimbers.org/fixed-… May 8, 2022