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Cocaine Rodeo

5.12a, Sport, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 500 votes
FA: Aaron Huey 2001
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla > 5. Drugs & Sex
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.

Location

The first route to the right of the roof. Start directly in front of the tree on a super-clean face.

Protection

15 bolts

Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

photo credit to Kent Sullivan
[Hide Photo] photo credit to Kent Sullivan
Fallon Rowe onsighting the route. Photo by Adam Beebs
[Hide Photo] Fallon Rowe onsighting the route. Photo by Adam Beebs
Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
[Hide Photo] Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
Me on cocaine rodeo.  Photo by Rayna McGinnis.<br>
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[Hide Photo] Me on cocaine rodeo. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.
Jon on the Rodeo.
[Hide Photo] Jon on the Rodeo.
This is me at the top of this wonderful climb!! I am looking up at the top crux and saying to my self "how the hell am I going to do this"
[Hide Photo] This is me at the top of this wonderful climb!! I am looking up at the top crux and saying to my self "how the hell am I going to do this"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Wit
Estes Park
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Wow what a great climb! There's really not a shut-down move on the climb so the crux seems to be keeping the pump at bay. Seems evident that this route gets some traffic by the polished black foot holds covered in rubber...adds a little difficulty to the crux moves. Aug 18, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] May be the best 12a I have done. Absolutely amazing climb! Jun 20, 2013
Jean Spencer
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Now that was fun! Especially liked the you're-not-done-yet crux at the top. Sep 2, 2013
Canyonclimber Mike
Casper WY
[Hide Comment] Wohoo, my first 12a lead at 43 years of age! Jan 12, 2014
Anonymous User
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] AMAZING!!!!

Crux is the opening sequence and then just above the bulge, be confident and mono hard to the mega holds just out of reach. Jul 27, 2015
Chris Winter
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Beautiful route! This route could use a modern sport anchor. The cold shut is worn at least half way through. Aug 17, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] "There's really not a shut-down move on the climb..."

Wwwwwwwhhhhhaaaaaa?!?! Are you high? First, there's that must-do, left-hand mono at the very beginning of the first bulge...then before the finishing moves you have to reach up and high step INTO an overhead gaston.

PLUS...if'n you didn't know to go beta right at the very beginning instead of trying that thin, desperate, 5.27d left sequence (SPOILER ALERT), then you'd likely get shut down THERE pretty hard.

I'd certainly call all THOSE stopper moves...not that they did... Sep 8, 2015
Spencer Cartwright
Logan, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Move after move after move after move. 3 independent cruxs. This route will straight up blow your mind. Aug 29, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] @ Toprope: at least in my understanding of a "stopper move", it is a move that is much harder than the rest of the route and could possibly just not be passable by someone redpointing that grade. You're more likely to find that in a one-move wonder (where the grade is made mostly by a single, well-defined crux that is definitely solid at the grade).

Cocaine has indeed no such move - I think anyone who "can climb" (redpoint or handdog) 12a can make it to the top of Cocaine. Aug 8, 2017
Michael Schmenk
Sandy, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The anchors on this route look super sketch currently. It's open fish hook style anchors, that are very worn, with chains hanging off them. The chains hanging off the hooks almost came off while I was cleaning the route so beware. Aug 28, 2017
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] If you don't care about blowing your onsight, here's a route preview video: youtu.be/71zXsBY3n2c Jul 3, 2018
[Hide Comment] Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI) Aug 31, 2018
Random Climber
Front Range
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely lives up to the hype- 15 bolts of pure technical joy. Get on it! Aug 12, 2023