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Cocaine Rodeo
5.12a,
Sport, 105 ft (32 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 500
votes
FA: Aaron Huey 2001
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Valhalla
> 5. Drugs & Sex
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.
Location
The first route to the right of the roof. Start directly in front of the tree on a super-clean face.
Protection
15 bolts
Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)
[Hide Photo] Jon on the Rodeo.
[Hide Photo] This is me at the top of this wonderful climb!! I am looking up at the top crux and saying to my self "how the hell am I going to do this"
Estes Park
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Casper WY
Golden, CO
Crux is the opening sequence and then just above the bulge, be confident and mono hard to the mega holds just out of reach. Jul 27, 2015
Boulder, CO
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Wwwwwwwhhhhhaaaaaa?!?! Are you high? First, there's that must-do, left-hand mono at the very beginning of the first bulge...then before the finishing moves you have to reach up and high step INTO an overhead gaston.
PLUS...if'n you didn't know to go beta right at the very beginning instead of trying that thin, desperate, 5.27d left sequence (SPOILER ALERT), then you'd likely get shut down THERE pretty hard.
I'd certainly call all THOSE stopper moves...not that they did... Sep 8, 2015
Logan, UT
Cocaine has indeed no such move - I think anyone who "can climb" (redpoint or handdog) 12a can make it to the top of Cocaine. Aug 8, 2017
Sandy, UT
Charlotte, NC
WY
Front Range