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Routes in Painted Walls Ice Climbs

Painted Wall Icicle, The WI5+ M9
Way in the Wilderness WI5
Type: Mixed, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bayard Russell, Kevin Mahoney, Peter Doucette, Doug Madara
Page Views: 794 total, 9/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Really good climbing. The first pitch, mostly drytooling, is pumpy and technical M9, and the second icier pitch can be anything. It was really fat when we did it. The sun hadn't come out in 5 days and, but as soon as it did the whole rig fell down. This route is south facing and on dark rock. The first pitch can be worked on safely, but wait for some shady or cold days.

Location

Located in the middle of the clean, steep wall on the right flank of the Painted Wall. 200 yards right of Way in The Wilderness. Look for the bolts going up to an enormous icicle. Rap off a tree right of the route, 200'.

Protection

Quickdraws and ice screws. The mid-height anchor is bolted. Belay from tree atop.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
You can see some great pictures of it on Bayard's blog whitemountainrockandice.com… Feb 11, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Hardboys!! Feb 11, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Post a pic! You deserve the glam shoot! Jul 7, 2010