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Domestic Friction

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: (TR) Chris Miller, Jim Robertson and Mike Brewer, August 1999 FL: Chris Miller & Cheryl Basye, July 2000
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Left…

Description

Well-protected and interesting face/friction moves with the crux just past the 3rd bolt.

  • Erroneously called "Miller Time" in some guidebooks.

Location

Just left of Runout in Reverse.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Straight up through 4 bolts.
[Hide Photo] Straight up through 4 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Shainman
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Did this for this first time yesterday. Not sure what it was like during the FA but there's no way it's 10b as listed in the Vogel book. It's 9+ as in that's maybe what it would have been rated if done in 1972 or that era. After leading it and a couple top rope runs with three people we probably broke off almost all the remaining loose scaly flakes...LOTS! It felt like we were doing a FA. I'd say we got it cleaned up now to be a fun little route! Difficulty felt about the same or maybe a hair harder (definitely "safer" lead) than the route just to its right. Jul 4, 2017
Tradiban
 
[Hide Comment] This probably solid 10+ in the modern context. Tough to start. Apr 21, 2019