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Routes in Orange Oswald Wall

Baby With A Nail Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Barfing Butterflies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chunko Goes Bowling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fabulous Groupies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hell With That, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Dreams S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hunger Artist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say No T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moon Pie Deluxe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Express S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Orange Oswald S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scoot Your Muffin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snub Nose S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Souled Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voodoo Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Shaine Smith, Dawn Abel 1995
Page Views: 2,644 total, 29/month
Shared By: jarthur on Jul 6, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

One of the best routes on this wall, but unless you are 6 ft you may find this route too reachy.

Locate the big sloper hold 8 feet off the deck with no holds except a good foot. You'll need some long arms to reach the start of this route. Walk into the wall with your hands up and latch on to that hold. The remainder of the route remains reachy in a few other spots especially around the 1st and 2nd bolts.

Staying direct is the best way to do this route, but by the looks of the chalk lines skirting out right around the 6 & 7th bolts avoids the small holds crux around the steeper sections of the rock. Moving out right is an option, but this way puts you too far right and a little runout so suck it up and go straight up for the real challenge, or put yourself in danger of penduluming and getting hurt.

Location

Located in between Strong Arming the Little Guy & She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled on the right side of the Orange Oswald Wall.

Protection

8 bolts and anchors.

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