Death Flake from HELL
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Charlie Kardaleff |
Page Views: | 5,060 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Eckhard Koehler on Jul 6, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Great climb! Pockets, cracks, over hung and long though not as sustained as other climbs, but basically you're getting Ten Sleep's jewels here. 5.10's here seem to be more about sustained pump than a "hard move". Although I seem to recall the crack/flack feature at the top being most difficult, perhaps, because the pump set in.
Yet another actual route description: Located in the left facing corner on the far left side of this wall, morning shade. Climb up the broken looking face between the right wall of the dihedral and the crack system for several bolts. Be aware that of loose rock. After about 3-4 bolts move left to the main face. Continue up the steep wall using large pockets and crack holds ( trad climbers call them "hand jams") past a left leaning crack to pull a small roof and clip the anchors.
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