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Routes in Gollum's Cave

Bilbo Baggins S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Choke Hold V10 7C+
Dragon's Hoard (tenative name), The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Escher's Staircase S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichentology T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Master of Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Precioussss S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Off the Edge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Troll, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
We Squeezes V11-12 8A+
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 754 total · 8/month
Shared By: Evan Winn on Jul 5, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

  • This is not necessarily a new route. It may be a forgotten project or a re-equipping of an old, unrecorded route. There was a single, old rusty and suspect pin lost in the moss at half height (now replaced by a bolt). There may have been more that have fallen out, or have been claimed by the moss in the cracks. There is no information that I can find about it and no recorded first ascent. If anyone has such info, please post it to the comments and I will update it.*

Like the Dragon's Treasure in The Hobbit, this route is a lost treasure. This treasure is a line of bomber, overhanging jugs separated by a tricky but interesting crux. At the second bolt, you hug a pillar and slap a horn. If you like overhanging jug hauls, then this one is for you. One of the best climbs in Gollum's Cave.

Location

The route is about 15 feet left of Escher's Staircase just right of a tall pine.

Protection

3 bolts, sport anchors. I recommend a stick clip or boulder pad if unfamiliar. The first bolt is high, but the climbing isn't hard.

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