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Routes in Fire Wall and Upper Tier

Aaron's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anvil, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burnt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dennis Hopper Memorial Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
E-Z Rider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Family Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Father's Day S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fire Walker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiyo S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun for the Whole Family S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hammer Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Descent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Takes a Village to Raise a Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kindling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nicole's Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prescribed Burn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reignite S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shadow Caster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stella's Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Still Smokin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Summer Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 567 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route climbs over several bulges along the left black streak. There are some good distances between some of the bolts but the climbing is generally easier during the gaps. Many of the holds can be difficult to find if not well chalked, be sure to feel around in the horizontals to find the best spots.

Grab some jugs and reach high to make the first clip. The hardest moves are just above getting to the second bolt. Continue up the water streak turning a few more bulges along the way.

Location

This route is on the Fire Wall (upper) and climbs the left hand of the 3 black streaks.

Protection

5? bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11d
Very bouldery crux off the ground goes to easy climbing, and is followed by easier cruxes through couple more bulges, interspersed by more very easy climbing. Not very sustained, a little sandy, and not as fun as other routes on this wall. Jul 11, 2016
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.12a
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.12a
I know of course that you are right and since this is a fairly new area it doesn't make much sense to use old standards, but I actually did find the bouldery crux 2/3 up and the beginning of FIYO a little harder than any FM moves, averaging things to the same grade (for me). But then again, I also suck at bouldering... Sep 6, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Matthias, if, by your comment you are referencing the YDS referring to the single hardest move on a route. That was how it was initially intended to be used but that has been out dated for many years at this point. Pretty much all routes are graded based on the cumulative difficulty to make a clean ascent. If we stuck to the YDS grade only referring to the single hardest move then both Goliath (5.13a) and BOHICA (5.13b) would also be 5.12a, food for thought. Sep 5, 2012
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.12a
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.12a
Found the crux moves to be 2/3 up and not any easier than the crux moves of Family Man. Because it is not as sustained as Family Man, I guess most people would agree that this route is easier, but since we use the YDS I gave it the same grade. Sep 4, 2012