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Routes in Wild Cat Wall

Cat Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colonade T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire Stone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keel Hauled T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mark's Crack (Left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Sorrow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock the Red Bago T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Street Walking Cheetah T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild Confusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Erik Thixton and Partner 1995
Page Views: 809 total, 9/month
Shared By: MichaelR on Jul 3, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fun long route. Start in thin crack which eventually widens to fingers then narrows to tips. Good crimps along the way. Sporty moves.

Location

Crack to the right of Colonnade

Protection

Gear to 1.5 inches. Doubles around .5, heavy in small stoppers. HB offsets might be helpful.

Photos

MichaelR  
 
I have given this route a name since it was unnamed by the FA team. Jul 19, 2010
MichaelR  
 
Andy, I placed bolts and led Firestone today. I thought it was a great route. I placed the first bolt standing on the break (I read this after bolting today) and 3 more above for a total of 4. I'm calling it 12a. I TR'd Iron Oxide the other weekend when I thought it was Firestone and I agree. It is a stellar climb. I will clean it up a bit next time. Great section of the wall! I am also going to change the suggested grade for the line right of colonnade to 11c. I feel it better represents the climb. I will update the page soon. Jul 18, 2010
andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
That's how I was going to do it. I thought the first clip would be where you're standing on the horizontal break that pretty much marks the end of the finger crack.

While you're working up there, you should clean Iron Oxide (the crux especially)! That line would be as stellar as its neighbors with a little cleaning. Jul 18, 2010
MichaelR  
 
Thanks Andy. I would be curious to hear what they thought the grade is. My rope is on the line left of Wildcat right now. I have TR'd it and think 12a or b would be the grade. I think it deserves a few bolts on the top because you would have to use #1 and #2 stoppers in not so good placements. I talked with Marlene and Jim about the lines and we finally agreed they have it wrong in the guidebook. So it goes Firestone, Iron Oxide, Unnamed, and then Colonnade. What do you think about bolts on the upper portion of firestone. Jul 17, 2010
andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
Mike--

I understand from a credible source that this was climbed free by Erik Thixton and a partner (mid '90s?), but never named. Don't know what they graded it. I can try to find out more.

I looked over at this years ago when I was cleaning Colonnade. It looked to me like it could end higher (above the current anchor), over the bulge to give access to the upper tier of rock. Check it out.

It's still a bit confusing to me whether Tieton River Rocks means to refer to this line as "Firestone" or the line immediately left of Wildcat Crack. I put the anchor in above the line left of Wildcat Crack and TR'd it (circa 1992), but lost interest due to rock quality on the upper pillar. The start is a fantastic finger crack, but it disappears into desperate shallow stems; maybe .12b?

Andy Jul 16, 2010
MichaelR  
 
I cleaned a lot of dirt out of this crack in order to lead it. I am wondering if it was the first time anybody has led this route on gear. There were anchors on top but no signs of a free ascent. I will suggest a grade of 11d. I would like to get some people on it to get a consensus. Anybody have any info? Great Route. Jul 4, 2010