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Routes in Blindspot Buttress

Blindspot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hindsight S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Victor Lawson
Page Views: 7,120 total, 79/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on Jul 2, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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24 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb cracks to ledge and arete. Pass a bolt (.10b) then head up and right to a hidden thin hand crack. Can link w/ pitch two easily. 1 bolt/gear to 2"

P2: Delicate flakes lead to a hard move on clean rock above a bolt (.11a) to gain a great hand/finger crack. Can link w/ pitch one easily. 1 bolt/gear to #3 camalot.

P3: Traverse left to a short O.W. (5.8) then "crawl on all sixes" to reach belay. Unique and wild. Optional #4 for O.W., otherwise, gear to #3.

P4: Thin left facing corner to fun and techy bolted arch (.11b). Great climbing! 5 bolts/thin gear.

P5: Several mantles up ledges (.10a) to amphitheater belay. 4 bolts/one thin piece.

P6:
Awesome left traversing underclings (.11a). Bring your camera. 3 bolts/gear to #3.

P7: Up for a bit (.10b) then head right via obvious 4th class slab to bolted belay. Gear to #3.

Location

APPROACH: The route takes a prominent line up a clean and proud, SW facing buttress. Hike up Pratt's Crack Canyon proper, passing the Gecko wall and continuing up a hill on a well constructed, rocky trail. Crest the hill and then cross the river directly across from a cave w/ bolts. Head up talus and then up 3rd class ledges (30ft) to a belay platform. 20min from car.

DESCENT: 5 raps down the route with one 60m rope. Extra caution is advised for the first rap as it is 30m!

Protection

Ground up, bolted entirely on lead. When the gear could hold a fall, a bolt was not placed. When it couldn't, or a nasty ledge fall was likely, a bolt was placed. There are 14 lead bolts in seven pitches and all belays are bolted ring hangers. All bolts and hangers are stainless steel.

Nuts & a double rack up to a #2 camalot and one #3 camalot is suggested (a #4 is very optional for the short 5.8 O.W. on pitch 3.) A mix of sport and extendo draws are required. If this is at your limit, go heavier on thin gear ie; nuts and cams to finger size.
Josh Janes    
 
Neil's rack beta is good: Double set to 0.5 Camalot, singles from there on up. In fact, I would consider both the #3 and #4 completely optional.

Also, it hasn't been mentioned but if it's not obvious, the penultimate rappel doesn't follow the route but goes straight down to a dedicated rap anchor.

With more traffic this route will clean up to be a classic! May 30, 2016
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Very nice route! Crux is definitely P4. Manageable temps if you climb first thing in the morning. Aug 10, 2014
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks Steve (and Lisa!) May 19, 2013
Did this gem with Lisa Coleman yesterday. Awesome route!
I got pitch 4 and we agreed if was rather stiff. Lisa took P6 and said, "OH Steve, its really only .11b! I'm so psyched!"

We were both near our limit (team onsight but it was close)and had extras on the thin pieces. Which worked out fine.

We thought .11c on the fourth and the move on P2 was quite hard as well.

Bolts are well placed but bring some go juice.

Maybe the best long route in Pine Creek, well done. Apr 29, 2013
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Pitches 2,4, and 6 are great! 5.8 OW is short and quick. Cowabunga. Jun 17, 2012
Monkey-sa  
 
Its officially been named the best 5.11 multi-pitch in the Bishop Area! Yay, Paul for scouting the line and Yay, Victor for putting in the grunt work to put it up! Jun 1, 2012
Neil Kauffman
  5.11b/c
Neil Kauffman  
  5.11b/c
Oh I DID IT! Awesome route Vic!! Had shade all route starting at 830; thought pitch 4 was quite harder than 6, but maybe just the nature of it. Double rack felt a bit heavy for us, I would say double to .5 camalot with extra thin cams, and single from .5-#3 camalot. We had a 70m rope which was nice. Cheers! Jul 20, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
Yes, SW facing is correct, so it's in the shade in the morning. The upper pitches are in some left facing corner systems at times so it holds shade in places. It only gets shade in the afternoon once the sun dips below the other rim of the canyon...

GO DO IT!

:) Jul 19, 2011
Neil Kauffman
  5.11b/c
Neil Kauffman  
  5.11b/c
SW-facing correct? I'm wondering about the comment that says it came into shade in the afternoon; is this due to the October sun? Any idea what time the wall gets sunny? Jul 16, 2011
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
Climbed the first 3 pitches with Nathan yesterday. Great route, good rock, continuously interesting and challenging. Vic has certainly added an instant classic for the trad hardmen.

Bring your mojo for this one however, the movement felt fairly balancy and insecure in spots and the gear, while adequate, isn't always right where you want it. It's a pretty intimidating route if 11b is your max, at least you can bail from anywhere.

FYI - It was pretty warm in the sun, but went into the shade early afternoon and got cold. We weren't feeling strong enough and went home whipped. You'll probably do better... Oct 9, 2010
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
Just did this thing again today w/ my good friend Cullen. He thought an overall of 5.11- was good, and the sometimes inobvious placements made things feel a tad harder, so keep your eyes open, and find the good gear! A double rack will help...

We got rained on while at the hanging belay after the 6th pitch. Whooo. Slippery. Oct 2, 2010
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
Nice! Thanks for the thumbs up! How'd you feel about the ratings (specifically the 4th picth as compared to the 6th pitch)? Did you go to the top? Did you use a 60m rope, and if so, how close was it on that first rap?

Glad you enjoyed it...in my opinion, it stacks up with some of the best multipitch climbs on the eastside.

Just make sure you get up earlier next time to avoid the oven!

vic Jul 15, 2010
MichaelC
  5.11b
MichaelC  
  5.11b
Bryan and I did this route yesterday with Paul's recommendation. Spectacular!!!!! You guys did a great job. We did the pitch 4 in the blazing sun, which made it super hard. We had a blast. The traverse pitch was photofantastic. People should do this route. Thanks for your hard work putting this instant classic up. Jul 11, 2010