Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Victor Lawson
Page Views: 11,734 total · 70/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on Jul 2, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

P1: Climb cracks to ledge and arete. Pass a bolt (.10b) then head up and right to a hidden thin hand crack. Can link w/ pitch two easily. 1 bolt/gear to 2"

P2: Delicate flakes lead to a hard move on clean rock above a bolt (.11a) to gain a great hand/finger crack. Can link w/ pitch one easily. 1 bolt/gear to #3 camalot.

P3: Traverse left to a short O.W. (5.8) then "crawl on all sixes" to reach belay. Unique and wild. Optional #4 for O.W., otherwise, gear to #3.

P4: Thin left facing corner to fun and techy bolted arch (.11b). Great climbing! 5 bolts/thin gear.

P5: Several mantles up ledges (.10a) to amphitheater belay. 4 bolts/one thin piece.

Awesome left traversing underclings (.11a). Bring your camera. 3 bolts/gear to #3.

P7: Up for a bit (.10b) then head right via obvious 4th class slab to bolted belay. Gear to #3.

Location Suggest change

APPROACH: The route takes a prominent line up a clean and proud, SW facing buttress. Hike up Pratt's Crack Canyon proper, passing the Gecko wall and continuing up a hill on a well constructed, rocky trail. Crest the hill and then cross the river directly across from a cave w/ bolts. Head up talus and then up 3rd class ledges (30ft) to a belay platform. 20min from car.

DESCENT: 5 raps down the route with one 60m rope. Extra caution is advised for the first rap as it is 30m!

Protection Suggest change

Ground up, bolted entirely on lead. When the gear could hold a fall, a bolt was not placed. When it couldn't, or a nasty ledge fall was likely, a bolt was placed. There are 14 lead bolts in seven pitches and all belays are bolted ring hangers. All bolts and hangers are stainless steel.

Nuts & a double rack up to a #2 camalot and one #3 camalot is suggested (a #4 is very optional for the short 5.8 O.W. on pitch 3.) A mix of sport and extendo draws are required. If this is at your limit, go heavier on thin gear ie; nuts and cams to finger size.