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Routes in Pince Sans Rire

Akelarre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
El Enano de Siberia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Esclava Laboral S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Faders West, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gracias Fina S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Alimana de Ocana S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Piton S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Maria Ponte el Arnes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Hay Pico con Lagunas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pince Sans Rire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 224 total · 2/month
Shared By: yevquest on Jul 1, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description [Edit]

Starting in the back of the Pince Cave, La Piton climbs out the huge roof capping the sector. Start by climbing tufas with a face hold thrown in here and there for a few bolts and a good kneebar/stem rest. The wall steepens a little here so move quickly through the next 2 bolts to some huge horn jugs. A boulder problem that ends with a left hand throw deposits you into the hole that's obvious from the ground. Kneebars allow recovery, much needed as the route now heads out the near horizontal roof. After resting, an odd traverse right starts the roof climbing. The first two bolts are huge jugs with good feet, clip the anchor here for 7c credit or keep moving out the roof. From the 2nd roof bolt, a long move and then a campus match (other beta?) lead to a manufactured gaston pocket and a huge jump move to a large block. The route ends at another huge move to the lip.

Location [Edit]

In the center of the cave, to the right of the shorter warmup routes. The hueco where the route steepens and the draws out the roof provide convenient landmarks.

Protection [Edit]



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