Type: Trad, TR
FA: Jim Thurmond 87
Page Views: 1,186 total · 11/month
Shared By: HTeale on Jul 1, 2010 with updates from Alex Bragg
Admins: chris tregge, Dave Hug

You & This Route

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Madison, WI
HTeale   Madison, WI
Top rope. Start in the alcove and climb the offwidth. Jul 1, 2010
Alex A  
FA Jim Thurmond 87 Sep 28, 2010
Joe Lo  
5 STARSSSS awesome climb!!!! Nov 10, 2013
Is there something I can't see in the picture? It makes this route appear much easier than 12. Jan 9, 2017
Peggy Flavin
Peggy Flavin   IL
Extra spicy on gear when the evil pigeons fly out of the crack into your face above your last piece. Classic! Apr 17, 2017
Nick Tripp
Nick Tripp  
This is offwidth climbing, leave-you-sore-for-a-week climbing, making-you-feel-parts-of-your-body-you-never-knew-you-had climbing.

Work your way up the bottom part, then grunt your way into the business. Try your best not to fall out, because you won't want to get back in. Once you get to pigeon nest ledge, the crack eases open to be a squeeze chimney, and all you need is the energy to finish the job.

Gear: Bump a #6 or two up the OW part. Put your faith in a Valley Giant or courage for the squeeze part - just be sure to grab whatever that is to make the final exposed squeeze moves a lot less scary. Bring a set of nuts for the cave-ledge before the squeeze to the summit, or don't listen to the advice of your friend and run it out for 40ft like me. Anchor off of a small tree, or figure out something better.

If this felt like a warmup for you, head over to Lumpy Ridge to try Kor's Crack of Fear! Mar 5, 2018
I was pretty confused by the grade of this thing. .12a seemed quite generous; .10+ would be fair at most crags, and in some places it would only earn 5.9. There's more chimney technique than offwidth required. It's true as the crack widens most people won't have any gear that fits, but the climbing is pretty easy at that point. Comparing this to Crack of Fear is a stretch. Jul 14, 2018
Peggy Flavin
Peggy Flavin   IL
Joe, it’s fairly well-established but not recorded that the stemming version outside of the crack is a 5.10. The offwidth, climbed as such, is more appropriately graded 5.12. Choose your own adventure of course but that’s the meaning behind the grade as I understand it. Aug 31, 2018