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Routes in (c) Le Dent Pinnacle

Dammit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Floating Log T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Forest Lawn A2+
Hey Vic, Over Here T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jammit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Dent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Le Petite Gratton T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munge Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steal Your Face TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Mark Bowling, June 1988
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the right arete counterpart to South Arete. Start by doing a short crack just left of the right edge of the pinnacle. Above the crack go over some small overlaps, passing two bolts on 11b climbing. The upper half of the arete is runout, although the climbing gets progressively easier.

Some might give this route an "R" rating while others would argue that the upper climbing is easy enough relative to the overall grade that it doesn't need one. Be forewarned, it is runout on easier ground.

Location

The right arete of the Le Dent Pinnacle proper.

Protection

Bolts, and maybe a little gear for the opening crack. Rapp from a horn.

Photos

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After clipping the first bolt I used the right wall to get to a stance to clip the second bolt, then tried to use the arete to get up, pretty hard. Wild easy climb up the arete from there. Might be more fun to use the chimney to gain the upper arete. Bolt are button heads and are sketch, first one is pulled out and bent a touch.

A 70m will put you close enough to the ground from the upper bolted rap station to down climb, not the bolts for Forest Lawn, there's a better rap station to the climbers right. Dec 16, 2017

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