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South Arete
5.11d,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
FA: Tom Gilje and Scott Erler, January 1988
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Suicide Rock
> (c) Le Dent Pinnacle
Description
A great route that follows an arete on steep rock. Start by doing a short bit of crack to get to the arete. Climb past 6 bolts. The arete yields superb climbing in a great position, with the crux approximately halfway up.
Tom Gilje originally lead the route with only three bolts, all placed on lead. The other three bolts were added at a later date. While doing it, imagine what it would be like with only three bolts...
Location
On the left edge of the Le Dent Pinnacle proper.
Protection
6 bolts. Rappel from a horn.
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Also, to clarify, this starts on a crazy looking 40 ft tall, 3ft wide pillar that is totally detached. It's insane that it's still standing. Maybe better to start he route on a nice layback on the left, not sure. There's two bolts on the face above the pillar and then a third bolt directly on the arete to gain the upper arete. Sep 24, 2017