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Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge

Chick Floater V6 7A
Chick Power V7 7A+
Cupcake V4 6B
Don't Tell Mom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Floater aka Center Route V5 6C
Heinous Gayness V4 6B
Left El Jeffe V6 7A
Pungase V8- 7B
Smoker's Paradise Project V9+ 7C
Southeast Arete V0 4
Trail Route S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and that crew
Page Views: 1,420 total, 16/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details


Start on the same platform as for Floater, and work left through cool hueco and tufa features before you can slap a huge jug and finish up the southeast arete route.

This route felt impossible until I sat there for an hour and really figured out the beta. Then it almost felt trivial. What grade do you call that?

Also who is the real first ascentionist?


Start at the same place as Floater and go left.


Pad over the rocks below the crux.


- No Photos -
Originally this received a V4, but a hold broke and Dan Russell gave it a new grade of V6 (2001). The start reportedly begins in Left El Jeffe's holds and the first couple moves are ridiculously easy/trivial. If you start one hold farther right, as has been listed under this route description, you have the ledge to deal with too, which makes the start feel even more trivial in my opinion. The crux section is fun but may be tough if you lack the reach. Dab potential is high (skip the pad if you're struggling). Nov 17, 2011