Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,321 total · 22/month
Shared By: Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

STARTS Mid-Ledge at the belay shared by "CT Cracks", "Old Town" and "Grendal".

Reach out of the left end of the ledge on top of Old Town and clip the first bolt. Make some fingery moves to pull onto the wall and climb up past two more bolts. Make an awkward mantle move above the third bolt then make a couple more moderate moves, ending at a two bolt anchor right below the Return to Forever corner.

Location

Start of the left end of the ledge that Old Town finishes on.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos

Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.11a
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.11a
I thought this route was as hard as Connecticut cracks. Apr 25, 2011
Michael Z.  
 
A cool short pitch of face climbing and an almost perfect, must do, linkup with Connecticut Cracks. Aug 16, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I second the link up with COnnecticut cracks. Two different styles of climbing, but at a similar grade. It's almost a full 30m to the top, so tie knots in your rope if you're going to TR it from the ground... Aug 6, 2012
jim.dangle    
A decent climb but very short. Maybe even 30-35 feet. Sort of reminded me of Worm Drive on Cathedral.

Is there a second pitch? I noticed another line of bolts heading up above the belay ledge.

Jim May 7, 2013
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
 
In Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing New England," this route is called "Fingers in a Seascape" (not "on"), and it's rated 10a. That rating seemed right to me the few times I climbed the route, but it's been at least 5 years, and I am tall enough perhaps to reach past intermediate holds. Or did a hold break, making the climb harder? Oct 13, 2014
Andrew Mertens
Fort Collins
  5.10c
Andrew Mertens   Fort Collins
  5.10c
Thanks Sprax, I changed it. Yeah, I think the difficult depends on both height and style preferences. If you are good at crimpy, balancy face it might feel 10a. Oct 13, 2014
Fun and safe, but not a gimme. Dec 21, 2018