Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Alchemy

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 122 votes
FA: MIke Mckee
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > S Clear Creek > Balcony

Description

Scramble up to the high first bolt. Toss your way through juggy horizontals. Decide your way of pulling out of the steepness and up to the anchors. (Hint: You can throw your feet into one horizontal and just hang out, no hands)

Location

Balcony, 25' right of Double Feature.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

There is a no hands rest on the horizontal break before pulling the bulge
[Hide Photo] There is a no hands rest on the horizontal break before pulling the bulge
Working alchemy on the first day of a weeklong trip
[Hide Photo] Working alchemy on the first day of a weeklong trip
Pulling the crux on alchemy, great climb!
[Hide Photo] Pulling the crux on alchemy, great climb!
Awesome route. Big throws to massive jugs.
[Hide Photo] Awesome route. Big throws to massive jugs.
Pulling one of the roofs on this route. Shut me down, had to french free it.
[Hide Photo] Pulling one of the roofs on this route. Shut me down, had to french free it.
Pulling through the short roofs
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the short roofs

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
[Hide Comment] Only gets 2 stars in the book but was one of my favorite climbs at South Clear. Fun foot work and long throws through the roofs. Oct 15, 2012
Bfane
Knox, Tn
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. Don't worry about the runout between the first 3 bolts, all the hard moves are well protected. And the roof is short, with jugs and clean falls. Mar 14, 2013
Marcus St Jolie
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] the shuts are worn through maybe 50 percent. bewaaare! Apr 12, 2015
Garçon Rouge
Nashville, TN
[Hide Comment] I had a lot harder time with this crux than Paleface, much more beta intensive. Could use some new anchors too....... Sep 5, 2017
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Seemed really hard . Oct 24, 2018
Jim Urbec
Sevierville, TN
[Hide Comment] Anchors have been replaced Nov 5, 2019
Adam Gallimore
Greensboro
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Not sure how this is beta intensive. Big moves on amazing holds with feet so good you don't even get pumped. Just rest up when you can and the crux isn't too bad. I've climbed harder 10s, so keep that in mind. Sep 28, 2020
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
5.11c
[Hide Comment] Very high first bolt most stick clips won't reach, and if you're shorter than 5'9" would be very hard to clip off the ledge. Apr 6, 2023