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Fire Point

5.9+ R, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 35 votes
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry, 1984
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Ship Rock > Main Tier

Description

This is one of the best ways to access K. B. Capers.

Climb a thin start up a right facing corner/left leaning ramp to finally reach gear about 25 feet up. Continue up to a series of roofs, pull this and climb up to a ledge below a bulge. Pull the bulge and build a belay a the base of the K.B. Capers corner system.

"Fee-ray, like the shoes..."

Location

Just to the left of Alternative Man's arete. Look for left angling ramp/corner.

Protection

What pro?

I take double Aliens and a single 1 & 2 BD C4 and lots of runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The best part of the route. The very exposed arete traverse.
[Hide Photo] The best part of the route. The very exposed arete traverse.
Corey and San finishing Fire Point. Took KB to the top. Classic!
[Hide Photo] Corey and San finishing Fire Point. Took KB to the top. Classic!
Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loose pancakes.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the R section with lots of flaky loose pancakes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Gear ain't that bad, and you get it below the crux. As mentioned, great start to KB Capers! Nov 11, 2010
Alexander Blum
Livermore, CA
[Hide Comment] The start protects just fine. Red C3 and a #4 bd nut sew itup just fine. R is unwarranted .... PG13, maybe May 1, 2011
Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
[Hide Comment] The R is above the crux. When you finish the corner, there is tons of loose rock that will NOT hold gear until you reach the arete. Yes, the crux is well protected. #5 stopper or brass/steel will work better than the #4. Also, this nut will not hold when you are on the loose ledge above. The rock in that seam will blow apart. Jul 6, 2011
GWB
 
[Hide Comment] Question for those having done this as a direct start to KB. Does this variation of the route trend right or left just below the belay on KB? I trended right and pulled the move and it felt harder than the crux section of KB. It was a sweet little variation but more like 10a/b. It protects well but there is a bit of drag. Definitely recommend it as the direct start to the second pitch. Apr 8, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I believe that most folks step left around the arete at the optional belay ledge before stepping back right into the dihedral below the crux of KB. Going right is probably a little harder and heading straight up falls somewhere around low eleven IMO. Apr 9, 2012
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
[Hide Comment] Getting to the 1st piece isn't that bad. However, that flake below the crux roof pull isn't the most inspiring thing on the planet. It looked like it would take a nice cam, so I place one. 1 little tug and the whole thing flexed like hulk hogan on some white powder, after downing some redbull. I replaced it with a okay nut, and hope for the best. After that 1st roof, things get better, in my opinion. Aug 22, 2016
Samuel G
Laramie
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with Tom and Mike, the gear by the crux fits well but it is in is less than stellar rock, the flake sounds hollow and might not be all that well attached. Would not want to test it. Jul 3, 2019
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Best way to approach KB. Keep a cool head and this pitch is nothing but fun. Jun 11, 2023