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Routes in Toxic - Tang Area

Even Steven T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Even Steven (lower left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geek Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roadside Floral Curtain S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slapshot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
View from the Bridge, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Colin Bartholomew (first reported ascent)
Page Views: 1,059 total, 12/month
Shared By: Colin Bartholomew on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.
Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.

Location

The Inner Wall at Index Town Walls. Follow the description there. It is two climbs left of Toxic Shock, next to the 5.10d corner.

Protection

Two number one's and two number two's and a yellow alien.

Photos

mindy  
You can also just boulder up this, no gear needed. Aug 8, 2010
Colin Bartholomew
WASHINGTON
 
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
 
Was it wet when you climbed it Robert? Cause that can affect the grade significantly. Jul 5, 2010
Robert Fisher
  5.8
Robert Fisher  
  5.8
The route is very short and needs a lot more cleaning to be worth anyone's while. If you are in the area, climb Index 5.8 and want to check out a dirt circus, have a go.

As an aside to the cleaner, Typically routes that have anecdotal previous ascent information are respected, even those without names. Reporting this as "Unnamed 5.9 crack" and FA Unkown would be more appropriate than renaming and giving yourself credit. Jul 1, 2010