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Journey to the Other Side of the Bridge

5.8, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 191 votes
FA: Colin Bartholomew (first reported ascent)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Inner Walls > W Side > (b) Toxic - Tang Area

Description

Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.

Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.

Start with a steep leaning hand crack that brings you to a good stance. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.

The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner below.

Location

The Inner Wall at Index Town Walls. Follow the description there. It is two climbs left of Toxic Shock, next to the 5.10d corner.

Protection

Two number one's and two number two's and a yellow alien. A few handsized cams and a few finger pieces should suffice. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katie on pitch 20 something of her birthday challenge
[Hide Photo] Katie on pitch 20 something of her birthday challenge
JTT preparing for the French blow
[Hide Photo] JTT preparing for the French blow
Very clean now
[Hide Photo] Very clean now
Hand crack
[Hide Photo] Hand crack
Toren at the stance midway up the route.
[Hide Photo] Toren at the stance midway up the route.
First Ascent.
[Hide Photo] First Ascent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] You can also just boulder up this, no gear needed. Aug 8, 2010
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Blame me for the "Journey" name. The route had been done back in the early '80s when I lowered down the stemming corner to clean it. Colin nicely cleaned it up in 2010 and reported it here under a different name. More recently Lucas D- recleaned it together with the stemming corner, installing a nice modern anchor at the top of both lines. May 21, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] It looks like it deserves more stars now.
A fantastic cleaning job has led to a route that should soon rival its neighbors for fun, moderate trad. May 25, 2018
Zach Parsons
Centennial, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Super clean right now and worth racking up for if you're in the area. Jun 2, 2018
Nate George
Seattle, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't recommend this to someone pushing their limits. The climbing is slightly awkward but more importantly, it's a bit tricky to protect without using up holds. Good route though, and worth doing if you're here. You can also use it to TR view from the bridge which is FANTASTIC. Jul 31, 2018
Jeffrey K
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, bouldery start! Amazing job cleaning it, was in stellar condition when we tried it. Sep 4, 2019
Devin Bishop
Granite Falls, WA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] If red Camelot’s are tight for your big
mitts, then this will feel harder than 5.8… especially with the awkward lean of the crack. If #1’s are your jam, you’ll be smiling. May 26, 2023
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I added hooks to this yesterday. Please TR off of your gear and use them for lowering. If you have any issues with the hooks please feel free to message me. Jul 24, 2023
Matthew Radcliffe
Sultan, WA
 
[Hide Comment] It’s a nice moderate 5.8 but unfortunately the protection at the top is less than ideal.

Lots of shallow flaring crack with solid face holds.

It’s not a major issue for most of the people climbing toxic shock but I wouldn’t recommend pushing grade on it.

I think a .5 or an offset nut would hold, but I wouldn’t want to test that theory. Sep 21, 2024