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Journey to the Other Side of the Bridge
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Colin Bartholomew (first reported ascent) |
Page Views: | 3,969 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Colin Bartholomew on Jun 30, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.
Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.
Start with a steep leaning hand crack that brings you to a good stance. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.
The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner below.
Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.
Start with a steep leaning hand crack that brings you to a good stance. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.
The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner below.
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