Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Basically climb a chimney that moves horizontally and vertically. The crux comes immediately and if you have big gear protects very well. There is a nice belay spot about halfway (Mike's Breakdown exit) if you would like to watch your follower grovel through the start. From the optional belay spot, you can continue up the inside or walk across the outside to the anchor.
Come in from the right. Just as you get up to the stating ledge for 19th Nervous Breakdown you will see a sloping chimney. Park yourself here you have arrived.
There was only one hanger at the anchor (above Bushwhack) when we climbed it. We backed this up with a slung chockstone and rapped to the starting ledge.