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North Crack

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Ed & Terry Wall

Description

An exciting journey up the steep north facing prow of the wall. The route has excellent exposure and super sweet finger locks, but only for the final 40 feet or so.

Location

Belay for the route at a small alcove almost on top of the Thimble, then 4th class up some ledges to the actual start of the climbing. Follow the obvious chimney until you reach a large flake, then traverse right on to the steep corner and start of the awesome finger crack. Lowering off is possible from the chains anchors but will twist your rope a bit.

Protection

A mix of nuts and cams from smallest to 2.5" bring extra in the 1" to 1.75" range.

Chains on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A view of North Chimney (left), North Crack (middle), and Inner Limits (right)
[Hide Photo] A view of North Chimney (left), North Crack (middle), and Inner Limits (right)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Devin Rogers
Temecula CA
 
[Hide Comment] What a great line! Seriously under-climbed/underrated, and a must do for any rock canyon crack climber (not like you have too many options). I'd call this route a 9+. The finger crack varies in size, with good locks throughout. I'd say the majority of it is in the .5 range but it can be climbed with a single set. Personally I'd bring doubles between .4 and .75 just for peace of mind. A #6 is nice for the chimney but by no means necessary, as you can get decent small cams in the very top of the finger crack. Jun 4, 2019