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Routes in French Kiss Area

Cantalope Earmuffs V3 6A
French Kiss V5 6C
Pinch Me Squeeze Me V6 7A
Pinch Me Squeeze Me (Stand) V0 4
Summer Solstice V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, Alpine, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: COEveryman on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber Details

Description

Start down and left of the small boulder at the base of the climb. Navigate up and right through a tricky sequence of crimps until you get yourself established on and okay crimp rail. From here, work up to either the lone crimp up and left or try to milk a fingertips lieback slot in the bottom of the crack. Some careful footwork will help you reach the lip which is a monster jug a the highest point.

An absolutely superb, crimpy, slab problem in an unbeatable setting at the base of the breathtaking, alpine slabs.

Location

This boulder is ten feet off the base of the alpine slabs and can be accessed in a short 3 minute walk from either the Dali Boulder or the French Kiss Boulder. Approach from the French Kiss boulder is a bit more straight forward.

DESCRIPTION: The boulder itself is white-ish in color with an obvious, leftward-trending, quartz band on its lower left side. The crack near the top of the center of the boulder is the end of the problem which starts down and left on crimps.

OPTION A: From "French Kiss" walk twenty yards up towards the slabs and then turn left and follow grassy slopes about 200 meters to the base of the boulder.

OPTION B: From the Dali Boulder, scramble across house-sized boulders essentially straight uphill, aiming for the alpine slabs. Once you reach the slabs, look for the white-ish boulder described above.

Protection

VERY IMPORTANT. A folded pad needs to be placed up against the bolder to the left of the small boulder at the base and then have TWO pads on top of the boulder and the folded pad. The reason for this being that a fall from the crux can send you straight into the small hole formed between the folded pad and the boulder--so two pads on top will help lessen the possibility of a twisted ankle. If you only have three pads, the one protecting the starting moves can be moved on top once the climber has moved a body length up and to the right on the problem. This is a safe problem if padded correctly.

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