Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Twisted Sisters

Frontal Lobe Excision T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I’m Not Okay, You’re Not Okay, But That’s Okay T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Obscurosplitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Space Master 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Secret Climb Two) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Western Relief T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: P. Hubbel?
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

First I would like to know who did the first ascent of this or even if anyone else has climbed it as I want to know their 5.11c beta as proposed in the Hubbel book. I salute the hardman/hardwoman who thinks this route is 5.11.

For the route: move right around a corner from Western Relief (formerly Moderate Dihedral on this site) and into a gully. On the left wall, 40 feet from Western Relief are two right-arcing cracks, one on top of the other. This route climbs the lower of the two cracks and involves 5.11+ climbing off the ground to pretty solid 5.12 undercling/off-finger awkward jamming with pretty poor feet. The route stays on you but eases up after the first crux and then has a pretty mellow although pumpy finish. Highly recommended but I thought the route was solid 5.12, not 5.11 as Hubbel lists it. Again, anyone climb this and think otherwise, or even agree with me for that matter?

Build a gear anchor and then downclimb off to the right, working back around the gully to the base.

Location

This is in the gully between Rock 1 and Rock 2 along the ridge, 30-40 feet right of Western Relief.

Protection

Rack to #3 Camalot with doubles of pretty much everything.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Haas  
 
Hubbel is claiming the FA. I salute you Hubbel as a local hardman. Jun 30, 2011