Frontal Lobe Excision
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in The Twisted Sisters
|Frontal Lobe Excision T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Im Not Okay, Youre Not Okay, But Thats Okay T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Obscurosplitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Space Master 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown (Secret Climb Two) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Western Relief T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||63 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Haas on Jun 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFirst I would like to know who did the first ascent of this or even if anyone else has climbed it as I want to know their 5.11c beta as proposed in the Hubbel book. I salute the hardman/hardwoman who thinks this route is 5.11.
For the route: move right around a corner from Western Relief (formerly Moderate Dihedral on this site) and into a gully. On the left wall, 40 feet from Western Relief are two right-arcing cracks, one on top of the other. This route climbs the lower of the two cracks and involves 5.11+ climbing off the ground to pretty solid 5.12 undercling/off-finger awkward jamming with pretty poor feet. The route stays on you but eases up after the first crux and then has a pretty mellow although pumpy finish. Highly recommended but I thought the route was solid 5.12, not 5.11 as Hubbel lists it. Again, anyone climb this and think otherwise, or even agree with me for that matter?
Build a gear anchor and then downclimb off to the right, working back around the gully to the base.
LocationThis is in the gully between Rock 1 and Rock 2 along the ridge, 30-40 feet right of Western Relief.
- No Photos -