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Routes in Crystal Freeway

Bad Saturday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Ramp T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grunt Lieback T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kitchen's Delight 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Road T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Chimp T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Northeast Cutoff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orange Christmas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Strawberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strong Love T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Very Bad Saturday T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Piana and Skinner
Page Views: 108 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Orange Christmas is a long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge, work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. It is 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Lieback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.

Protection [Suggest Change]

8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.

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Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11 R
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11 R
Replaced all the bolts today. Even with fat bolts, the second half (or second pitch) is intimidating! The bolts on the second half/pitch are hard to see.

Bolt beta for the second half starting at the possible belay at the base of the Flake Out dihedral:
1st is about 30 ft away at 2:00.
2nd is 25 ft above at 12:30.
3rd is 35 or 40 feet straight up the rib.
4th is 10 ft at 1:30.
Jul 20, 2015

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