Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Routes in Crystal Freeway
|Bad Saturday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Exit Ramp T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Grunt Lieback T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kitchen's Delight 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Low Road T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Mr. Chimp T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Northeast Cutoff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Orange Christmas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Strawberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Strong Love T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Very Bad Saturday T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|FA:||Piana and Skinner|
|Page Views:||96 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff G. on Jun 28, 2010|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionOrange Christmas is a long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge, work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. It is 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.
LocationThe route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Lieback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.
Protection8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.
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