Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Piana and Skinner
Page Views: 152 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Orange Christmas is a long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge, work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. It is 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.


The route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Lieback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.


8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.


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Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11 R
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11 R
Replaced all the bolts today. Even with fat bolts, the second half (or second pitch) is intimidating! The bolts on the second half/pitch are hard to see.

Bolt beta for the second half starting at the possible belay at the base of the Flake Out dihedral:
1st is about 30 ft away at 2:00.
2nd is 25 ft above at 12:30.
3rd is 35 or 40 feet straight up the rib.
4th is 10 ft at 1:30.
Jul 20, 2015
Tom Kelley
  5.11- R
Tom Kelley  
  5.11- R
Thanks for doing this, Ken. It was on my list for bolt replacement for a long time, but I never got back to get to it. The top half (or traditionally the second pitch) was a train wreck waiting to happen for a long, long time. P.S. The upper slab is reminiscent of Quicksilver in the Valley and in my opinion is rated about 5.8, but the freakout factor is very high (similar to what you might find in the Needles). Jul 25, 2018