Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Climb the short but steep offwidth crack, then continue up, staying left of a tree and finishing up a delicate right facing flake to a belay anchor on the slab above. Above this is the 3rd pitch roof of Sportsman's Paradise.
Climb pitch 1 (the approach pitch) of Sportsman's Paradise. From the base of the first hard boulder problem over the bulge of Sportsman's, move left about 30' to the base of an offwidth splitting the roof. A belay from good nuts and medium sized cams can be built directly below this offwidth.