PRINT: Rock Climb Sportsman's Paradise, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Sportsman's Paradise

5.11, Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: Mark Bennett, Thomas Koch, Bill Robins 1987
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)
Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)
Pitch 3- Climb the next roof using the thin crack which widens slightly at the lip. As it says in the Ruckman Guide, "a mini separate reality". Above the roof, I continued up and right past a bolt to a belay anchor on a slab. (5.10) -the original belay atop this pitch was in a group of trees. Those trees are now dead and could probably be easily pulled out. Better to belay up and right at the bolt anchor.

Location

To the right of Western Grebe is an area of slabs divided by steep walls and roofs. Scramble up and go right along a steep wall until reaching a nice belay spot in boulders.

Protection

A set of cams from small tcu's to about #3 camalot size. Stoppers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the lip on pitch 3 as the route is described here.<br>
Photo- Maura H.

Pulling the lip on pitch 3 as the route is described here. Photo- Maura H.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mountainsense

strong work, ben! i've wondered about those lines... Jun 27, 2010

Ben Folsom

5.11

Actually, the second pitch offwidth is a variation to the left called the Duck Waddle Variation, which I posted yesterday as well. The second pitch (1st after the easy approach pitch) is to the right of that offwidth and makes some funky moves up a bulge to a right leaning/right facing corner.
Yeah, the finger lock over the roof was full of sand/gravel, which took some time to dig out while my other arm was getting wildly pumped. It's still not clean, but enough to get a middle finger in enough to do the move. Jun 28, 2010