M1 Steep Snow
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Someone climbed it then fell attempting to ski it in the '30s|
|Page Views:||2,178 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Buff Johnson on Jun 27, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When the couloir melts out during the couloir climbing season, it offers more as to an easy alpine climb. And, as a climb, it can be fickle with snow becoming more unconsolidated as you ascend; but fun just the same. Be aware, this route gets sun, so use the early start, otherwise you might take a beating.
I believe we had 45-55 degree snow with a short easy mixed section. Most of the route is around 40 degree snow, but gets steeper as you climb. So to explain the distances, it's a about 600ft total, but the semi-technical part was 2 pitches with a 60m, with a 70m you could just go for the top as just one pitch and grab a boulder anchor, no problem. The exit didn't have a threatening cornice when we got on it; although my partner had issues with Kenny Loggins playing over & over again in his head -- I feel the need, the need .. for speed.
The approach is really nothing and much less time and effort than getting to an Apron. Though I will say the Aprons look very impressive from the side; you wonder why you did a couloir when you could have had an Apron. But, Top Gun had been on my tick list for a while, and we wanted to see what it was actually like. So, somewhat an adventure climb.
Descent -- you can glissade the Sunrise (watch out for the cornice that builds and threatens the route like a huge serac), or take either Spalding Ridge or Evans Ridge. Spalding would probably be a bit quicker than Evans; depends on your sight-seeing desires. Top Gun doesn't take very long to climb.
Something that looks worse than it is as far as difficulty.