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Routes in Kelly's Hill

5.11 Crack V3 6A
Afternoon Delight V3-4 6A+
Emergency Response V3+ 6A+
Face, Jump Start Boulder V0+ 4+
Johnnie Big Mouth V4 6B
Jump Start V1 5
S.O.S. V5 6C
Target Practice V0 4
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Kelly Lindsay
Page Views: 2,034 total, 22/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Jun 26, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sit start on great holds in the low hueco on the overhanging tallest part of the boulder. I went pretty much straight up on slopers, most of which have a little bit of a positive edge. Guidebook says to go up and right. Either way, getting established out of the hole is probably the crux.

Location

This problem is in the "main area" of Kelly's Hill. When hiking up to this area from the main trail, you'll see the boulder with Jump Start on your left and the obvious striking prow of the Johnnie Big Mouth boulder on your right. Good map in the Bob Banks book.

Protection

Crash pad.
5150dhbiker
Santa Barbara, CA
 
5150dhbiker   Santa Barbara, CA
 
I love this rock. The dyno to the top is, in my opinion, the most fun way to finish this problem. Apr 6, 2014
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
 
Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly. Jan 27, 2014
Kelly Lindsay  
  V4
The correct name is Johnnie Big Mouth, after the song by Don Carlos. The original problem went to the right after the hueco and finished with a big dyno to the top, until a better sequence was discovered that went straight up. Aug 21, 2013