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Supergrinder

5.10d, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 95 votes
FA: Marty Lewis and Kevin Calder (Aug '06)
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Mustache Wall

Description

P1: Start up a gully, pulling over a few bulges before reaching a 2 bolt anchor near a bush and dihedral. 8 bolts

P2: Instead of continuing up the crack/dihedral, clip a bolt, step down, and then traverse left on some inobvious crimps. A few more powerful moves past the next bolt lead to an awesome finish where incut edges abound. 7 bolts

You can link these pitches together with twin ropes or if you extend most of the bolts.

Rap with one rope in two rappels using the anchors on Window Shopper.

Protection

Draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Megan on the excellent finishing moves of Supergrinder
[Hide Photo] Megan on the excellent finishing moves of Supergrinder
Starting up p2. The traverse out left is very thin but higher up, edges abound. Sidecar is the crack to the right.
[Hide Photo] Starting up p2. The traverse out left is very thin but higher up, edges abound. Sidecar is the crack to the right.
Rico pulling the bulge on p1.
[Hide Photo] Rico pulling the bulge on p1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron Cassebeer
Tehachapi, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch needs some more climbing to clean up. An okay pitch.
P2 is much better, with a couple hard moves off the belay followed by more moderate face. Exposed and fun. Aug 30, 2010
Ken H
Granite, UT
[Hide Comment] I thought the first pitch was great but probably only 5.9 or 5.10a. Jun 6, 2012
Jeff Witt
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing! I agree with Ken about the first pitch - maybe 5.10a? A tricky, but well protected crux. Jun 11, 2012
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] fun weird climbing. first pitch is 5.9+ or 10a-. lots of big holds. Aug 11, 2014
Phil Esra
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic. It's all pretty easy except for the p2 crux. P1 must have cleaned up nicely--it's about as clean as you could hope for, minus one loose flake that has a lot of chalk on it. Quite easy to avoid that flake. Apr 21, 2015
Josh Janes

 
[Hide Comment] Beta on the two bolted extensions that depart from the ledge atop this climb? Sep 5, 2017
Darrell Hensel
[Hide Comment] The two routes off the Supergrinder ledge share a common start for a couple of bolts before spliting:

Left - Three Amigos, 12b (11a, 12b)
Right - Supermega 12a (10d, 12a)

I seem to recall a 70m being mandatory for the second pitch on both if using a single rope. The first pitches aren't as long.

Sorry, I've already forgotten exact bolt counts, but I would plan on something in the upper teens since both last pitches are close to 35m long. No gear required.

Edit: Just repeated Three Amigos with an 80m. I can say that a 70m IS mandatory for a single rope lower as I remembered. On both routes. Sep 5, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
 
[Hide Comment] Was great climbing both Three Amigos and Mega Grinder with you Darrell. Gotta say I must have gained inspiration from you for the send of Mega. Sep 20, 2017
BAd
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Great fun! I would probably go 11a for shorter climbers, but for us tall doods, 10d is about right. Both pitches are great. The upper section on p2 is dreamy fun. If you can't muster the 11a/10d mojo, you might be able to pull through on a draw or sling to get to the bigger holds. The upper section is probably 5.9. Awesome incut edges. May 16, 2020
Lenore Sparks
Bishop, CA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Super fun as a 60 M pitch P1 + P2 Jun 25, 2022