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Routes in Teepee Rock

Gracias a Dios T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Honeycomb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Cracked Up To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let 'Em Eat Grain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not A Hogan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleezy Mormon T A3
Tortoise Skeleton Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Maggie Ross
Page Views: 148 total · 2/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 26, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the left of two aid lines which are on the wall left of Not A Hogan. There are a few "chicken " bolts along the seam at the start....I tried doing it without, and a piece popped out, hit me in the face (I got 4 stitches), and then all the pieces ripped and I decked out too. When I returned to finish the climb, I did it with the chicken bolts. After the dicey start, it finishes with a crack which takes stoppers, TCUs and cams.

Location

On the wall left of Not a Hogan on TeePee Rock.

Protection

The starts has a hook, some RURPS/heads/beaks and QDs for the chicken bolts, then the crack opens up to stoppers, TCUs, cams, and soon you are at the top,

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
The right aid climb is also A3, but is more dicey for it has no "chicken" bolts, and there is a big gritty boulder at the base to land on it your placements fail; much more committing, but no more difficult then it's brother to the left. FA Tom Wolfe 1999 Jun 26, 2010
I've seen these aid routes every time i pass this area, do they go clean?.. or what kind of iron should i bring? Jun 15, 2016
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
nothing more than the recommended gear list;.....some quick draws for the bolts, a few RURPS, beaks, and copperheads..then stoppers and TCUs.....it's very safe with the chicken bolts.....and one hook for the opening move. Jun 16, 2016

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