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Routes in Teepee Rock

Gracias a Dios T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Honeycomb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Cracked Up To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let 'Em Eat Grain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marie Antoinette T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not A Hogan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleezy Mormon T A3
Tortoise Skeleton Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Maggie Ross
Page Views: 134 total, 1/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 26, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is the left of two aid lines which are on the wall left of Not A Hogan. There are a few "chicken " bolts along the seam at the start....I tried doing it without, and a piece popped out, hit me in the face (I got 4 stitches), and then all the pieces ripped and I decked out too. When I returned to finish the climb, I did it with the chicken bolts. After the dicey start, it finishes with a crack which takes stoppers, TCUs and cams.


On the wall left of Not a Hogan on TeePee Rock.


The starts has a hook, some RURPS/heads/beaks and QDs for the chicken bolts, then the crack opens up to stoppers, TCUs, cams, and soon you are at the top,


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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
nothing more than the recommended gear list;.....some quick draws for the bolts, a few RURPS, beaks, and copperheads..then stoppers and's very safe with the chicken bolts.....and one hook for the opening move. Jun 16, 2016
I've seen these aid routes every time i pass this area, do they go clean?.. or what kind of iron should i bring? Jun 15, 2016
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
The right aid climb is also A3, but is more dicey for it has no "chicken" bolts, and there is a big gritty boulder at the base to land on it your placements fail; much more committing, but no more difficult then it's brother to the left. FA Tom Wolfe 1999 Jun 26, 2010