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Routes in Lost Eye to the Moon

D&D 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eye For an Eye S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiddlin' Buckaroo S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Once you go poodle you don't go back S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Replikator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm on the Range S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Riders of the Purple Sage S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Zig Zag T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Tim Standing 2007
Page Views: 1,189 total, 13/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jun 26, 2010 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is near the center of the Crag and starts right of a low angle crack/corner system. Some bolts are hard to see because they're in pockets.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor. Lower using a 70 meter rope.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.6
There's a lot of hollow sounding plates on this route. Climb gently. ;)

Our 60M did NOT reach the ground, wasn't even close. Only route we had this issue among the many we climbed in our 5 day stay. I was able to get lowered to just below the first bolt in the left crack, then it wasn't too bad (5.3?) down climbing the 15-20 feet. [it appears to be added to the description now, thanks!]

Still a very fun climb, ranks as one of the better routes I did during my stay (it's probably 5.6 fwiw). Apr 30, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Pretty good route overall, though not nearly as good as Eye for Eye. The rock quality on this one gets worse the higher you climb--it might be preferable to skip the last three bolts and finish in the crack to the right (D&D).

Lowered off with a 70m and had just a few feet of extra rope on either end. Apr 3, 2016
Nice cruiser of a route, crazy placement of a couple bolts beneath an outer layer of rock. Incredible friction makes it a relaxing slab climb but long enough for a 70 meter rope to be preferable. Oct 20, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
Crux moves up to the first bolt. Then flakes etc, Then smeary to the anchors. Fun route. Mar 17, 2013
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
Third on the rope stretcher... Last few bolts are difficult (impossible) to see from below, but they're there. Feb 28, 2012
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
  5.7
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
  5.7
Dido on the rope stretcher. Jun 21, 2011
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7
60m rope stretcher. Tie a stopper knot.
7 bolts I believe. Passing the last bolt is frictiony fun (don't cheat right). Apr 17, 2011