Rain on the Mountain
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft|
|FA:||Bernard Gillett, with Paul Foster, 2010|
|Page Views:||2,350 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Bernard Gillett on Jun 25, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionRain on the Mountain climbs the beautiful, vertical face on the right side of The Golden Hall (see ) with immaculate stone. Once you get to the 2nd bolt, it doesn't let up until the very top.
Climb an easy ramp up and right to reach the first of 9 bolts (yes, you may use the corner to the right to full advantage in order to establish yourself on the wall). The first half is about 5.12- along a thin seam to good holds midway up the wall; the 2nd half is the business.
Be mindful of the sloping ledge beneath the first bolt (potential ankle breaker if you aren't careful through the first 3-4 bolts). I'd recommend hanging a draw from at least the 7th bolt (desperate clip otherwise); I hung draws on the entire route and pinkpointed it.
To access the chains on top, hike around the right side of the cliff and scramble up a dirty ramp system. Head out to the edge of the cliff by a big pine tree, and squeeze past a branch growing against the rock. Traverse a ledge 10 feet and clip into the anchors. It's easy (3rd class?), but you'd die if you fell, so rope up or don't fall.
As noted above, cool temperatures are advantageous for this route. Summer ascents are not out of the question (we did it on June 25th, a day forecasted to reach 99 degrees in Longmont). The cliff resides at about 7500', and if you leave the parking lot at 5:15 a.m., you'll be climbing as the sun rises over the hills. The wall gets first light -- you've got until about 8:00 a.m. before things start feeling greasy. The wall goes into shade in the early afternoon (summer time).
LocationThe route is located on the right side of The Golden Hall, right of GBD and Tres Cojones e un Cuernito.
1) Climb a route on the main wall or the Left Buttress. The Beak can be done quickly (combine pitches), and gives you a good warmup. Head right from the top of the route on a big ledge, and scramble up and behind a boulder. The first bolt route encountered is GBD, which is located on the left side of the wall.
2) Hike the gully on the west side of the Left Buttress to Moonlight Rock (go more-or-less straight up from the parking pullout), and traverse the ledge above Left Buttress to the Golden Hall. 20 minutes? The gully is kind of gnarly and unpleasant, with no good trail at present, and lots of loose terrain. Perhaps a trail that connects the end of the main Mary's Bust trail to this gully can be established in the future (though maybe not; the terrain is pretty rough).
3) Hike the normal trail to Mary's Bust, turn right, and head up the gully on the right side. A stream runs down this gully in the spring (can be icy in winter). About half way up, you should see a majestic cedar on a big ledge: Aim for the right side of the ledge, go behind the cedar, and continue along the exposed ledge to a mantle at its end. Above this, a short 5.0 slab must be negotiated: I've got a 20-foot piece of rope fixed there for a hand rail. Continue up the gully and go through the pass behind Mary's Bust to arrive at the base. Also 20 minutes, and my preferred approach.