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Routes in Middle Section

Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Into the Maelstrom T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
It's Super Body, YO! T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Knot Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost and Found T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Test of Faith S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yang & Yin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Duemler/Aaron Collins/Mark Geikenjoyner. FFA David Bloom
Page Views: 1,667 total, 18/month
Shared By: bio on Jun 25, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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8 Opinions

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Description

Just downstream of Bird of Prey is a large, tombstone shaped monolith split by chimneys on both sides. Resurrection goes up the left side chimney for pitch 1, 5.9 4 bolts and gear to ledge then moved right to anchor. P2 up good rock past bolts and sparse gear over slightly overhanging thin holds/side pulls past a juggy roof then easier climbing to anchors, 12a. Long and strenuous.

Location

On the tomstone, out of the darkness and into the light!

Protection

9 quickdraws, small rack of doubles from .3 to .75, one #1 and one #3.

Photos

Brilliant route on a better cliff in an even better setting. Shame it's so heavily bolted though, there's more than enough natural pro on the crux pitch for it to have been climbed without (I placed many small wires, up to around size 5). I could understand a bolt at the roof since the rocks a bit dodgy round there but the rest are unnecessary. Strange for an area with a minimal bolting ethic. Nevertheless it's an excellent route with outstanding exposure and despite the bolts it retains a bit of a traddy feel. Four stars for sure. From the top anchor twin 60's reach the ground, and someone should take a nut key to the stuck wire at the crux (not mine, and I had no nut key). May 24, 2015
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
I've just tried Pitch one- it was tough for me being short my body barely spanned the chimney. I personally didn't think 5.9... but more like 5.10? Oh well, maybe low gravity day. Jun 14, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
Pitch 1 is awesome by itself, feels a little like Epinephrine. May 30, 2011
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
Resurrection is Awesome!! I'm stoked David could get it in great style. It was funny looking back on it. He was cruising through the business when he was asked from below how he liked it. His response was Hold the conversation please:) I guess he was as serious as I was when I led it:) Great job David!! Sep 23, 2010