Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,291 total · 55/month
Shared By: Sean Ferrell on Jun 24, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

It's no Astroman, but this route has a couple things going for it. The best things about this route are that the rock is impeccable, the line follows the major weakness in the cliff (there's an elegance in this, when it happens, I think), it takes good gear at the 5.6 parts, and you get to climb for a good long while. Except for the bleached crack at the top, the moves are fun.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Follow the huge left facing dihedral. Find the line of least resistance, with a few possibilities. The pitch ends to the right. Use long runners, or carry a winch to bring the rope up at the belay. There are some cool moves in an odd, low-angle chimney at the bottom, and a fun mantel/step up to the right. Belay less than one rope-length above at a modern rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.easy/J1): With just a few moves of fifth class climbing, make your way through the low angle section to the base of the next pitch. If memory serves me, this is a traditional anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Fifth class pretty much the whole way, with a bleached, wide, low-angle 5.6 crack at the top. Belay at the trees - a 48" sling makes for an easy belay set-up.

It may be possible to do this in two pitches with a 70m, but communication difficulties, rope drag, and length will conspire against you. The three pitch split-up feels natural.

I haven't done any routes above, but this is a great way to access the upper cliffs.

Location

Hike to the base of Lower Eight Mile Buttress. Locate the massive left facing dihedral, and scoot up the starting slab that angles to the left. If your starting spot has a bolted line branching to the left (Thunderball, bolted 10c), and a large overhang further left of that, you are in the right place.

Protection

Depending on your comfort level, bring somewhere between a half rack and two racks of cams, with one set of nuts. Most of the cruxes protect well with big cams (2"-4").
The descent to the west was uncomfortable. Bring descent shoes, and use your best discretion. The hike down the east side may be better.

Photos