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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Erik Gillis, Janson Evans
Page Views: 490 total, 5/month
Shared By: Erik S. Gillis on Jun 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

spicy for sure. It is not 100 clean. We did it ground up style so the pro is sparse for the fist section. It is enjoyable face climbing that leads into a crack climb higher up. I will be up to clean it a little more. As I was doing the first section I was reminded of hard grit type routes. Don't try this climb unless you are comfortable with 5.8+, it could be an ankle buster or more.

Location

It is to the right of Era of Tara, The, right next to butt crack. It is the arete there, but you stay on the left of the arete on the steep face. Reach the ledge and follow the crack on your left from there.

Protection

standard rack. the first piece is a red metolius(or at least that is what i used) on the arete. Then there is none until you get to the ledge and the start the crack up above.

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