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Routes in Monkey Dome

Doctor, Doctor, Doctor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elvis Impersonators and Traveling Priests S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pink Dolphin, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Praying Monkey, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,323 total, 15/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 22, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This cool route goes to a small, fine summit.

Location

This route is located on the South face of Monkey Dome, and you have to scramble and/or climb up aways to get to the Praying Monkey before you even start the route. This is the left most route on the south face of Monkey Dome

Protection

Three bolts protects face climbing to the summit. Double bolts on top to rap off.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Instead of climbing up directly to the start of the climb...you can traverse in from the left (west) via 3rd class unroped scrambling. Coming up from below is 5th class climbing...and probably a climb in itself.
Jan 7, 2017
Hiked out to the area a few days ago with my girlfriend and started to scramble up to the belay ledge only to be stopped by a 25 ft(ish) hand crack that I would say is about a 5.6. I didn't have any gear large enough to protect the approach (probably a few cams around #3) and had to turn back before we were able to even start the climb.

The approach on this climb (trying to get to the ledge from directly underneath) is only a scramble if you're comfortable free soloing 40+ feet of challenging climbing with limited space. It's a shame the original route setter wasn't able to add a couple more bolts below the 'belay ledge' to make this a true sport climb. It looked to me like the climb up to the belay was well harder than a 5.4 rating so don't be fooled and bring some trad gear to safely get on this climb.

I'll be back!!
Jan 7, 2017
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Very cool summit - worth seeking out if you are in the area! Feb 25, 2014