The Route that Kor Forgot
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan, 6/20/2010|
|Page Views:||68 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Sheridan on Jun 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route could easily have been climbed by Layton Kor years ago and never mentioned. Maybe he forgot to write it up, or maybe he never even set foot on the face. Nevertheless, the route is very similar in character to the Kor Route on The Saber, hence the name. The route has seen some previous activity, we found the tattered remains of a rappel station on top of pitch two.
Pitch 1: climb straight up to the base of a prominent, left-facing dihedral (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 2: climb up the left-facing dihedral. The crux is just above the belay and a touch run-out but reasonably secure. Continue up the dihedral to a large belay ledge (5.10 PG-13, 180 feet).
Pitch 3: climb cracks on the steep, right side of the dihedral to avoid lower quality climbing in the corner proper. Gain and then follow a chimney system behind a giant flake. From the top of the flake, continue up to a large ledge system (5.10-, 190 feet).
Scramble up to the top of the ledge system. From here, it is possible to take a side trip left for a close up view of the Central Buttress. For the route, scramble up, right and around the South East ridge and onto the east face.
Pitch 4: climb cracks up, then trending left on exposed terrain following the southeast ridge onto the south face (5.8R, 180 feet).
Traverse right on easy 3rd class terrain and grassy ledges for about 120 feet and set a belay at the base of the upper east face.
Pitch 5: climb discontinuous cracks trending up and right towards a large bulge. Traverse right below the bulge to a belay (5.8, 150 feet).
Pitch 6: climb up and left on steep terrain past the easier right side of the bulge. Higher up the climbing gets easier. Stretch the rope and belay wherever looks good (5.8, 180 feet).
Pitch 7: climb up easy terrain to gain and then ascend an easy chimney which ends at the top of the east buttress and a stone's throw from the Continental Divide (5.6, 150 feet).