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Routes in Cays 3

Boardwalk, The T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Don't Shoot, I'm Climbing T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Last Mango In Paris S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Fish T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown D S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown H T,S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Unknown I T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown J T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: A. Pon, T. Pomtier
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This "gully" lies between Last Mango in Paris and The Boardwalk. Initial inspection might make one wonder where the line is; however, searching for a reasonable line for your 7 year old might get you thinking this is a line to try.

It starts in a mellow crack with spots of vegetation. There is a ledge about 35' up. Then it continues up more of a more vegetated gully angling slightly right. It can be finished to the left on more broken terrain to Last Mango in Paris' P1 anchor. As a final variation, you can head off slightly more right on a cleaner slab.

Since its first ascent in 1994, the upper vegetation has reclaimed the upper parts, so you'll need to garden a bit to protect it.

Location

It lies between Last Mango in Paris and The Boardwalk.

Protection

To #2 Camalot. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
 
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
 
The last section before the anchors can be a bit sketchy with limited pro due to the upper flake being pretty rotten and hollow. I ran it out into most likely ground fall territory rather than put a cam in the right-trending flake. Fun climb, although a little dirty and grown out. Be careful pulling on that guy! Jul 28, 2010