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Routes in Building Blocks - East
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Latter-Day Saints S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mechanic, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Raingutter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Technicolor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Techno-Weenie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zip Drive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bingham, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,881 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 21, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Locate the climb by identifying three new glue-in bolts in the center of the north face. Scramble up blocks to gain a ledge. Make face moves in the corner to gain the left side of the horizontal crack. Hand traverse right placing gear to below the first bolt. Make technical face moves past several bolts to the crux. Make very engaging technical moves with few/no foot holds to gain the scoop and clip the final bolt.
This classic route packs a lot of good climbing in with four bolts. The face above looks blank and intimidating from below, but just enough holds appear to allow passage at a reasonable grade.
Start by scrambling up to the horizontal crack system. Hand traverse to the right across the blank wall (gear) and engage the upper face. The crux comes after the third bolt and is a little heady since the feet disappear. Rap from the anchors above the arete.
This classic route packs a lot of good climbing in with four bolts. The face above looks blank and intimidating from below, but just enough holds appear to allow passage at a reasonable grade.
Start by scrambling up to the horizontal crack system. Hand traverse to the right across the blank wall (gear) and engage the upper face. The crux comes after the third bolt and is a little heady since the feet disappear. Rap from the anchors above the arete.
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