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Routes in The Overlook

Brenda from Kansas T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Denver Nugget T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greenfield T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jersey Devil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lobo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Louisville Slugger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minnesota Fats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Obscurity Risk T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Philadelphia Flyer T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Probe, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Out of Compton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Transylvania T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yosemite Sam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: Don DeBieux, 1993
Page Views: 568 total, 6/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the line with the three fixed pins and two fixed wires just right of Greenfield, arcing up and right along the steepest part of the wall. Despite the "funk" factor with the old fixed pro, this is a great little climb with steep moves and nice rock.

Pre-clip the first fixed wire if you can (we did a cupped-hand boost-up stand to get the draw on), then crank strenuous lockoff moves as you pull onto the wall. Head right to a good flake/jug and a pin, bust more tough moves past a fixed stopper, then step right below the second overhang. Two more fixed pins in the seam get you up the curved, perplexing finishing corner.

I was able to back up the next-to-last fixed pin with an RP above it, and the final pin with a bomber Metolius yellow (No. 2) in the horizontal just below it.

The fixed nuts seem OK on this climb, but the last two pins stick out a bit far - though you can back them up! Once the corner ends slab up and right a little to the double-bolt anchors.

Location

This is just right of Greenfield on the steepest belly of the Overlook.

Protection

Three fixed pins, two fixed wires, RPs, small TCU(s).

Photos

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ChanVan Schaack
  5.12a PG13
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.12a PG13
A little scary at the start. I climbed up and hung off the first fixed nut to back it up, then lowered and fired from the start with the fixed nut and back-up nut already clipped. No decking potential that way. Cool route overall- steep and funky with a back-up available next to almost every fixed piece. May 30, 2013