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Routes in Zealand Notch Itself: Whitewall Mountain

Black Knight , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castle Keep T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lady Slippers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Teresa Nagle and Bradley White, June, 2010
Page Views: 836 total, 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 20, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Cannon Cliff and Whitewall are alike except for Whitewall facing west is more weathered.
Climb starts right of the northern head wall where the steepest rock of buttress meets the ground. Above is an alcove with cracks I went up to vault right 5.7 crux onto the open face easily up and through an overhang to the tree ledge belay in the shade.
Next traversed up left to scree on ridge very loose to trees up right.
Third was short steep to diagonal left upward by breaks in rocks until below shallow up book for belay.
Up the book to another wide book and belayed.
Up this book to the outcrop rock Black Knight and belayed.
Teresa led last pitch up the outside of the wall right with a couple of blocks on it.
Belay above cliff was challenging for Teresa to find and she did alright up left were decent crack protection.
Midway up the ridge lots of access by other way from the ground up. The outside of open books are bulging corners of high difficulty, and likely well protected.
We has serious fun it was easier and like Cannon's WGR. We went the path of least resistance. There are many possible variations more exposed and harder to climb.

Location

Central north side, maneuver downward until there is a steep outcropping of white granite to the right and up higher the inside alcove corner right of an off width crack slab with a birch tree growing below them is the landmark. There were loose rocks to start dangerously near the birch tree.

Protection

TCU's were used the most. Lots of trees for anchors. Rappelling is a bad idea because of the many loose stones. Likely dangerously doable. We brought two 40m ropes one thin lightweight and the other thicker durable. Most pitches were 80ft.? and 2nd pitch scree was 120ft.
No descent trail. The descent is down scree field north or left from finish off the cliff. Best to stay near to go across above the cliffs until easy to get to scree and its a long walk down to the trail.
We headed for Mt. Whitewall's summit with it's sign in W.M.N.F. cache. Beautiful woods acres of rare Lady Slippers blooming. We went here hoping to find signs of a trail down. No trail and we bushwhacked down and away from gullies cascades. After that, directly down through horribly hurtful tree covered rock forest to the trail. No disabling injuries beside our scrapes and scratches from pine trees.
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Looks Cool Bradley, keep'em coming! Jun 21, 2010