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Couch Warrior

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 0.8 from 6 votes
FA: Luke Laeser, Ted Geving and Carlo Torres, 7/21/98
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > Dungeon > Main Wall

Description

Lichen, a scary move just before a hard 3rd clip, and ambiguous "crack on/off" rules, may explain the lack of traffic on what is one of the easier Main Wall routes.

Climb up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, maybe or maybe not using the wide cobwebbed crack to its right. Undercling to reach out, & turn the roof, which is a fun, neat sequence, but has potential to take big whippers onto the bolt under the roof and maybe hit your belayer, even though you're so close to being able to clip the 3rd bolt. This is followed by a good rest stance. Continue up a lichen-covered vertical face, maybe or maybe not using the crack to its right.

Originally rated 5.12b. Regardless of whether you use the crack to the right or avoid it, you still have to climb the crux.

Location

The second-from-the-rightmost bolted route on the Main Wall.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] Probably the least good of the main, main wall routes. FA also included Ted Geving and Carlo Torres Sep 2, 2010
Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] Added a new 5 bolt 5.10ish warmup route Ted Geving, Layton Laeser and I are calling Disenchantment. Climbs the chossy and sometimes wet crack right of couch warrior. Enjoy Oct 7, 2019