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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Luke Laeser, Ted Geving and Carlo Torres, 7/21/98
Page Views: 649 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 17, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description [Edit]

Lichen, a scary move just before a hard 3rd clip, and ambiguous "crack on/off" rules, may explain the lack of traffic on what is one of the easier Main Wall routes.

Climb up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, maybe or maybe not using the wide cobwebbed crack to its right. Undercling to reach out, & turn the roof, which is a fun, neat sequence, but has potential to take big whippers onto the bolt under the roof and maybe hit your belayer, even though you're so close to being able to clip the 3rd bolt. This is followed by a good rest stance. Continue up a lichen-covered vertical face, maybe or maybe not using the crack to its right.

Originally rated 5.12b. Regardless of whether you use the crack to the right or avoid it, you still have to climb the crux.

Location [Edit]

Rightmost bolted route on the Main Wall

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Probably the least good of the main, main wall routes. FA also included Ted Geving and Carlo Torres Sep 2, 2010

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