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Routes in Main Wall
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Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Castle Greyskull V4 6B |
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Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Drives a Stick S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Disenchantment S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dump Trump S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Wedgie, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Evil Alchemist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phrenology S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tug Buddies S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 35.86945, -106.35773 |
| FA: | Luke Laeser, Ted Geving and Carlo Torres, 7/21/98 |
| Page Views: | 1,518 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Lichen, a scary move just before a hard 3rd clip, and ambiguous "crack on/off" rules, may explain the lack of traffic on what is one of the easier Main Wall routes.
Climb up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, maybe or maybe not using the wide cobwebbed crack to its right. Undercling to reach out, & turn the roof, which is a fun, neat sequence, but has potential to take big whippers onto the bolt under the roof and maybe hit your belayer, even though you're so close to being able to clip the 3rd bolt. This is followed by a good rest stance. Continue up a lichen-covered vertical face, maybe or maybe not using the crack to its right.
Originally rated 5.12b. Regardless of whether you use the crack to the right or avoid it, you still have to climb the crux.
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