[Hide Comment] Sure this has been done but I gave it a name, please let me know if it is known as something different.

Be careful of some loose rock higher up. We rapped off the chains to the right of the route with room to spare on a 70m, looked like a 60m would make it but barely. Jun 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] The beginning of this looked a bit pumpy for a 5.8.

How did you start this out Nick? Jun 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] Straight up the crack bro. Definite technical crux at the start. "Old School" 5.8 Jun 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] That's what I thought. Didnt look 5.8 at all at the beginning. It was pretty much blank on either side of the crack for like 15 feet. I'll give it a go when Paul goes back there with me. Jun 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] You can take the early exit left and hit the chains for An Eye For An Eye. I wouldn't suggest it, as the route gets pretty damn awesome by that roof. Also, there was a huge and funky bee or wasp or hornet hive thing by the anchors, so we took the overhanging crack left of the anchors. 5.7ish stuff on junky rock with decent pro. Fantastic route in my book. May 25, 2012

[Hide Comment] That's how I originally finished this, before the bees nest was there. Were there bees on it? Check my pic on the main page to see it in it's full glory. May 26, 2012

[Hide Comment] You haven't seen it in its full glory. I'll have to go back to get a picture. May 26, 2012

[Hide Comment] After the second roof section, this gets a little spicy and really chossy/mossy.

If you plan to have someone follow or TR this route, place a #3 cam in the horizontal crack on the wall in front of you when you top out on lead. Look DOWN and to the right and you will see the chains. Make an anchor there as you hang on the #3 and then lower down. The #3 seriously helps with rope drag and protects your follower. It's still gonna suck for your follower to downclimb unprotected to the chains after they clean the #3. May 28, 2017

[Hide Comment] Climbed and led this route for the first time on Sunday. Seemed like this hadn't been climbed for a while and had a lot of loose sand lichen growing on the route. Fun movement though and was having a great time until a block the size of a dinner plate came off in my hand when mantling onto the ledge 3/4 of the way up. The final crack had another large flake that was wobbling as well. Follower wasn't strong enough to pull it off safely so marked with an X. Definitely have your belayer wear a helmet on this route and beware of loose rock. Great fun and relatively good pro through the harder sections. Mar 6, 2024

[Hide Comment] If you can’t pull it off, it aint loose. Mar 7, 2024